Yangshuo’s Best Places to Watch Cormorant Fishing

There’s a certain magic that descends upon the Li River as the sun begins to set. The jagged karst peaks, those iconic limestone sentinels, soften into dark silhouettes against a watercolor sky of orange and purple. The air, once buzzing with the energy of day-trippers and bamboo rafts, grows still and quiet. And then, you see it: the soft, warm glow of a lantern approaching on the water. It’s a scene that has played out for over a thousand years, a living tapestry of light, water, and tradition. This is the timeless spectacle of cormorant fishing in Yangshuo, and witnessing it is not just a item to check off a tourist list—it’s a profound journey into the soul of rural China.

While modern fishing methods have largely replaced this ancient practice for sustenance, it has been preserved as a cultural treasure, a performance that tells a story of harmony between man and nature. For the traveler seeking an authentic and photogenic experience, finding the perfect spot to watch the cormorant fishermen (渔翁, yú wēng) and their skilled birds is a highlight of any trip to Guangxi. This guide will navigate you through the best locations, the history behind the practice, and how to experience it responsibly in today’s world.

Understanding the Dance: The Story of Cormorant Fishing

Before we explore the where, it’s essential to understand the what and why. Cormorant fishing is a technique that dates back to the Tang Dynasty (618–907 AD). It is a breathtaking example of symbiotic partnership.

The Method to the Magic

The fisherman, often having inherited the practice from his father and grandfather, controls a wooden boat. On the edges of the boat perch several large, black cormorant birds. These birds are natural fishers, equipped with incredible diving skills and keen eyesight. A crucial detail: a light snare or a loose knot is tied near the base of the bird’s throat. This prevents the cormorant from swallowing larger fish, but allows it to eat smaller ones, keeping it motivated and well-fed. At the fisherman’s command, the birds dive into the water, chasing fish. After a successful catch, they return to the boat, and the fisherman expertly retrieys the larger fish from their throats. The scene is illuminated by a gas lamp or a traditional lantern hung from the front of the boat. This light not only allows the fisherman to see but also attracts plankton, which in turn attracts small fish, creating a natural feeding ground for the cormorants.

A Fading Tradition in the Modern World

It’s a poignant reality that there are very few, if any, fishermen who rely on cormorants for their primary livelihood today. The construction of dams, modern overfishing, and pollution have changed the ecosystem of the Li River. Most of the performances you will see are sustained by tourism. This isn’t a reason to be cynical; rather, it’s a reason to be appreciative. Tourism has become the patron of this ancient art, providing an economic incentive to keep the tradition alive. The men you see on the boats are often master performers, true custodians of a cultural heritage that would otherwise be lost. Watching them is a privilege.

The Best Vantage Points: Where to Experience the Magic

Choosing where to watch a cormorant fishing performance depends on the experience you desire—from large, organized tours to more intimate, distant viewings.

1. On a Traditional Bamboo Raft on the Li River

This is, without a doubt, the most immersive and popular way to experience cormorant fishing. As you float silently down the serene Li River on a bamboo raft, the stunning landscape is your backdrop. Many raft tours, especially those scheduled for the late afternoon or early evening, include a cormorant fishing demonstration as part of the itinerary.

You’ll get up close to the action. You can hear the gentle splashes of the birds entering the water, the soft commands of the fisherman, and the flapping of wings as the cormorants return with their catch. The proximity allows for incredible photographs and a real sense of being part of the moment. Tours typically depart from Xingping Town or other smaller docks. Booking through a reputable tour operator in Yangshuo town is recommended to ensure safety and quality.

2. The Banks of the Yulong River

For a slightly more peaceful and less crowded alternative to the Li River, the Yulong River is a fantastic choice. Known as the "Little Li River," it’s narrower, shallower, and exudes a more rustic, pastoral charm. Cormorant fishing performances here feel more organic, as if you’ve stumbled upon a secret.

You can often watch from the riverbanks or from one of the many ancient stone bridges that cross the Yulong, like the Fuli Bridge or the Xiangui Bridge. The setting is quieter, allowing you to absorb the sounds of the countryside—the chirping of crickets, the flow of the water—accompanied by the visual poetry of the illuminated boat. It’s a highly romantic setting, perfect for couples.

3. The "Impression Sanjie Liu" Light Show Area

While not a traditional, spontaneous performance, the area around the world-famous Impression Sanjie Liu outdoor light show, directed by Zhang Yimou, often features cormorant fishing demonstrations. This show itself uses the natural karst landscape as its stage and involves hundreds of local performers.

Before or after the main event, smaller troupes often perform cormorant fishing in the adjacent waters. The advantage here is the guaranteed viewing and the combination with another magnificent cultural spectacle. The downside is that it can feel more theatrical and less authentic than a river-based encounter. However, the scale and production value are undeniably impressive.

4. From the Streets of Xingping Old Town

The ancient fishing village of Xingping is arguably the most photogenic town on the Li River. It’s the home of the image featured on the 20 RMB note. The waterfront here is a hive of activity, and it’s a common place for fishermen to launch their boats for evening performances.

You can secure a great view right from the old town’s pier. Restaurants and cafes along the waterfront offer balcony seating where you can enjoy a local beer (啤酒, píjiǔ) or a cup of tea (茶, chá) while watching the lanterns light up on the river below. This option offers a blend of comfort, culture, and convenience.

Beyond the Spectacle: The Ethical Traveler's Guide

As conscious travelers, it's our responsibility to ensure our curiosity supports the well-being of the tradition and the animals involved.

Choosing Responsible Tours

Do your research. Opt for tour operators who are transparent about their practices. Reputable companies work with local fishing families directly, ensuring the revenue supports them. Ask questions: How are the birds treated? How long are their working hours? A well-cared-for cormorant is a valued partner, and ethical handlers treat them with respect. Avoid any operator that seems to prioritize photo ops over the welfare of the birds or the fisherman.

The Photography Etiquette

It’s a breathtaking photo opportunity, but remember this is a cultural demonstration, not a zoo exhibit. Use a zoom lens instead of crowding the boat. Be mindful of your flash, as it can startle the birds and disrupt the fisherman’s concentration. Always ask for permission if you want a close-up portrait of the fisherman—a smile and a gesture are universal languages. Often, tipping is appropriate if you take a dedicated photo with them.

Supporting the Local Community

The best way to ensure this tradition continues is to make sure your money goes to the right people. Book local guides. Eat at family-owned restaurants in Xingping or nearby villages. Buy souvenirs from local artisans. Your tourism dollar is a vote for the preservation of this culture. By investing in the community, you help create a sustainable future for traditions like cormorant fishing.

The image of the cormorant fisherman on his bamboo raft, guided by the soft light of a lantern, is the very essence of Yangshuo. It’s a bridge between the ancient and the modern, a peaceful, powerful reminder of a simpler time. Finding your perfect spot along the river to witness this dance is more than just seeing a show; it’s about connecting with a history that flows as deeply as the Li River itself. It’s a moment of pure, tranquil magic that will stay with you long after you’ve left those beautiful karst peaks behind.